Wednesday, October 12, 2016

Cookbook tells the story of Sri Lanka's civil war through food...

Even if you knew nothing about Vijaya, her haunting portrait would likely give you pause. She peers out of the page, unsmiling, her silver hair pulled back and her eyes conveying an unspoken anguish. From the accompanying narrative, we learn that a few years ago, almost overnight, Vijaya became her granddaughter Anjali's primary caretaker. Her daughter, Gayathri, set out to find nutritious food for the family amidst heavy shelling, at the violent end of Sri Lanka's decades-long civil war, and never returned home.

In the years since, money has been scarce and fresh vegetables in limited supply. But Vijaya and her granddaughter survived on creamy, coconut milk-laced sothis, mild gravies that act as soothing antidotes to the scorching cuisine of Sri Lanka's Tamil-dominated north. Sothis are a common part of everyday meals. But seen through the lens of war — and Vijaya's lingering loss — this simple side dish acquires a new depth.

It is this exploration of food — both as a source of sustenance and a repository of memories — in the context of war that makes Handmade, a cookbook published by Palmera, a not-for-profit organization based in Australia, different from the other Sri Lankan cookbooks to have come out in recent times.

Handmade is set in the aftermath of the brutal, 26-year-long civil war that has had a profound bearing on the contemporary history of Sri Lanka. The protracted battle came to an end in 2009, when the Sri Lankan government defeated the Tamil Tigers, a rebel group that had been fighting for a separate state for the Tamil ethnic minority in the island's north and east. Full story...

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